IMPORTANT NOTICE! This is a text file. It may not print out properly in a web browser. If you are having problems printing this document, save it to your hard drive (select "save" in the "file" menu) And open it with any text editor, such as notepad, wordpad, or word. Copyright 2005 SavvySeams. Some rights reserved. Visit http://www.savvyseams.com/ or email info@savvyseams.com for more information. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 559 Nathan Abbott Way, Stanford, California 94305, USA. Choose Your Own Adventure Bag Instructions Page 1 This is a simple shoulder or messenger bag - it can be made as advanced or an easy as you desire. There are so many ways to make this bag your own -- sprinkled through the step-by-step instructions, in bold, are my suggestions for other ways to assemble the bag. Please skim all the instructions before starting so you can really 'choose your own' Adventure bag! Materials Required: * 1 yard of 54"+ wide fabric, or 1.5 yards of 45" wide fabric * 1/2 yard contrast lining * 1/2 yard interfacing OR 1/2 yard coated nylon and 1 yard 18" wide applique fusible web * Thread * Buttons for pocket closures * 14" zipper for the main compartment closure (optional - see step 25 on page 4) The interior of the finished bag is about 9" by 12" - large enough to carry around a notebook and supplies for class, bring a coat and camera for a short jaunt in the woods, or pack all your supplies for an urban adventure. Or carry all the essentials you need to save the world. Made as it is in the picture, this bag sits comfortably on the hip when the strap is worn across the body. The main compartment closes with a zipper; the flap is secured with ties. There is a small accessory pocket underneath the flap, and on the shoulder. Continue on to Instructions Page 2 Step 1: Cut out your pattern pieces. But before you do this, you have to make a choice. * You can waterproof your bag by cutting out coated ripstop nylon to use as interfacing for pattern pieces 1, 2 and 3. You will fuse this to the bag using iron-on applique fusible webbing (see step 6). The advantage is it reinforces your bag even more than interfacing, and also makes it water resistant. The disadvantage it reinforces the bag even more than interfacing -- if you have a stiff fabric already, you may want to avoid this. It may also make a crinkling noise in the final bag. Crinkle (not rub) your nylon to get an idea of the worst-case senario noise. * You can just use interfacing instead of bothering with all this nylon stuff. Your bag won't be waterproof, and maybe not as strong, but it won't have any of the disadvantages of the nylon interlining, either. You also need to decide how long to make your strap. The directions on the pattern will make a 50" strap, which on me (I'm 5'4") means the bag rests on my lower hip when I wear it across my body. Measure the straps of bags you already own (or your friends already own) to get an idea of a good length for you. It's better to err on the side of length. In step 24, you can check the length with the shell of your bag and adjust it before they get sewn in for good. Step 2: Note - if you want to add any pockets to the lining, do so now. Otherwise... Begin with the constrast lining. Line up the centers of one of the lining front or back pieces with the lining bottom piece (pieces #1 and #3). Pin the pieces together, with the right sides together. The point where bottom piece begins to angle in is about the point where the curved corner of the bag starts. What is most important is just to make sure it is pinned symmetrically. Step 3: Sew along the seam you just pinned, using a 1/2" seam allowance, starting and finishing at the marked dot (on the pattern piece #3). Stopping at the dot is necessary to leave some seam allowance for the other back/front piece. Step 4: Pin and sew the other back/front piece bottom piece as in steps 2 and 3. Your lining should look like this at this point. Notice that no seams are sewn above the point of the bottom piece. Step 5: Pin the sides together above the point (marked by the green arrow). Sew from the edge to exactly meet the other stitching. Pull the triangle and the rest of the bottom piece away from your sewing so it doesn't get caught by the needle. If you open up the bottom, the stitching should look like this. If all your stitching doesn't meet at one point, extend the offending seam by the necessary amount. The right side will look like this. Step 6, If you want to use the nylon interlining: Pin all the interlining pieces (2 of piece #1, 2 of piece #2, and 1 of piece #3) to the applique fusable web. Cut around your fabric pieces using paper-grade scissors (not your nice shears!). Remove the paper backing at this step. Now make a fabric sandwich for pressing, in this order: nylon, coated side up; fusible web; fabric, right side up; press cloth. Iron, following the instructions that came with your fusible web, but don't use a temperature too hot for your fabric. If want to use interfacing, fuse the interfacing to the bag front, back, bottom, and both flap pieces at this point. Step 7: Make up the cording (instructions here). For four of the cording pieces, finish one of the ends. The fifth is for buttonloops. If you aren't going to use buttonloops, don't bother with this piece. Step 8: Apply any pocket desired to the back or front of the bag. I have instructions for the double-welt slash pocket shown in the photo in the techniques section. The pattern pieces for a 6" welt pocket are included in the pdf file. Step 9: Baste the raw ends of two of the cord lengths to the center of the bag front, on the right side. Make sure the cord ends are even with the edge of the fabric, so that they will be anchored in the seam when the bag bottom is sewn on. Step 10: Now pin and sew the bag bottom in place, as you did for the lining in steps 2 and 3. Notice the little cords stitcking up, out of the way. If you use the ripstop interlining, be aware the ripstop may seem "sticky". If you are having difficulty, be sure that you aren't incidentally pressing the fabric down against your machine, increasing the friction. Step 11: Sew the bag back piece to the bottom, and sew up the sides, like steps 4 and 5. Reinforce the stitching by sewing again halfway between the seam and the edge of the fabric. Step 12: Turn the bag right side out, and set in the lining, and pin the raw edges together as shown. Baste them together using a long stitch length, less than 1/2" from the edge. Continue onto the 3rd page. Step 13: Now to sew the flap. If you want to add a pocket to the flap, or embroider or embellish it in any way, do so now. Baste the raw edges of the other two cords to the center of the interfaced (or nylon fused) flap piece, on the right side, making sure the cord ends are even with the fabric edge. Step 14: Pin the two flap pieces together, right side together. Sew along the sides and curved edge, leaving the top open as shown. (Note the little cords sticking out of the top). Step 15: Clip the corner and trim the curves. Step 16: Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the sewn edges, and baste the open top closed. If you want to add any embroidery or embellishment to the strap, do so now. Step 17, to make the strap pocket: Sew the pocket piece to one of the long strap pieces, right sides together. Press the seam allowances towards the pocket, and topstitch through the pocket and seam allowances, leaving the long strap piece free (as shown in the photo). If you don't want to add the strap pocket, go to step #21. Step 18: Baste the button loop (use a 1.5"-2" piece of cording) to the right side raw edge of the small strap piece. Step 19: Pin the other pocket edge to the right side of the small strap piece, and sew. Turn flat and press, then topstitch through all layers (across the loop). Step 20: Bring the two seams together, and fold the pocket downwards. Pin and baste in place. The front will look like this. Step 21: Sew the other long and short strap pieces together. Press the seam allowance open in the back. If you didn't make the pocket, do this for both sets of strap pieces. If your fabric is very lightweight, or has a bad tendency to fray you may want to reinforce the strap. To do this, cut another strap length of a non-stretchy scrap fabric. In this next step, layer this on top of either of the strap pieces (on the wrong side, which means it will be on the outside in step 22) and follow the instructions as normal. Step 22: Pin both straps together, with the right sides together. Orient the top and bottom pieces in opposite directions so the seams in the middle do not overlap (to reduce bulk). It is very important to pin before you sew in this step, so that you can make sure the feed dogs aren't pulling the bottom fabric faster than the top fabric is moving along. This will always happen to some extent, but if you're not careful you'll get to the end of the seam and find one end is magically longer than the other by a half an inch! Sew up both long edges of the strap using a 1/2" each allowance. Step 23: Turn the strap right side out, press, and topstitch along both edges. If you made a button loop or button hole for the strap pocket, sew the button on at this point. Try using the thread shank method. Continue onto the 4th page. Step 24: Baste the strap to the bag. Line up the outer edges of the strap with the side seams. Be sure that the back of the strap is against the back of the bag. Now test it out -- make sure the length is correct. If it's too long, trim some of the length off. If it's too short, use the strap template to make a small strap extension. Then rip apart the strap seam at one end, and sew it in. Step 25: Pin the flap onto the bag. Baste in place. If you want the flap closure only, with no zipper, buy or make some bias tape, and bind the raw edges of the bag. And then you're finished! If you want to add the zipper closure, continue on to step 26. Step 26: Pin one of the bag facings (piece #11), face down, to the zipper tape as in the photo. Sew along the zipper teeth, on the line indicated in red. Step 27: Fold the facing piece out, and attach the other one in the same manner as step 26. Make sure the ends line up. Step 28: Press the facings away from the zipper teeth. Topstich close to the fold. Also use a decorative or zig-zag stitch across the edge of the zipper tape to conceal the raw edge of the facing behind the zipper tape. Step 29: Fold the zipper and facings in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew 1/2" from the edge. Stitch several times over the zipper to secure the end, either with the machine or by hand. Trim the excess zipper. Repeat for the other side. Step 30: Open up the zipper, and place the whole facing over the opening of the bag, right sides together. Pin the facing in place. You may have to stretch it a little to fit. Then sew through all layers, 1/2" from the edge. Zig-zag stitch to finish the seam. Step 31: Pull facing up. Your bag is now almost done! Step 32: On the back facing, topstitch the facing to the seam allowance. The back of the bag won't have any visible stitching. Step 33: Fold down the facing in the front and press. Then topstich through all the layers in the front. If you use this pattern in any part, please send me a photo of your finished creation at info@savvyseams.com. I'd love to show it in my visitors' gallery section of the blog. --------------------------------------------- Sewing a Double Welt or Piped Pocket This type of pocket is found most often as pants back pockets, and on jacket and blazers. I use a double welt pocket with a button loop on my "Choose Your Own Adventure" Bag. This method of installing a piped pocket uses "stitch-in-the-ditch" topstitching to anchor the welts in place - the stitches are nearly invisible and they make it easier to install the pocket than the traditional method. There are three button options explained in this tutorial: a button and loop, and flap and button, or a button and buttonhole. I'll also explain how you can put a zipper into the pocket. The required materials are: * The fabric where you want to install your pocket. * Two 1" wide strips of fabric, two inches longer than the finished pocket length (typical pocket lengths are 7" for a man's jacket, 6" for a woman's jacket, 5" for pants) * Lining for the pockets - Decide how deep you want your pockets (4-5"). You need two pockets pieces - a small one, the width is the length of the pocket +2", the height is the depth of the pocket +1"; and a large one, the same width but the height is the depth of the pocket +2". * Some small scraps of interfacing to reinforce buttons / buttonholes * Thread * Button(s) Also, to make the loop style you will need to make some cording; for the flap style, you need fabric and interfacing for the flap; for the zipper style, you need a zipper at least 1" longer than the pocket opening. Step 1: Mark the position of your pocket with chalk or washable fabric pen on the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. I will refer to this mark as the "pocket line". Unless the whole fabric piece is already interfaced, cut a square of interfacing 2" longer that your pocket length, and 2" wide. Fuse it to the back of the fabric, centering it over the pocket line. Step 2: Line the two fabric strips up along the length of the pocket line, centering them (each strip will stick on 1" from the end of the pocket-to-be). The top of the bottom strip should sit on the pocket line, as well as the bottom of the top strip. Remember you are pinning them to the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. Step 3: Stitch along each strip, 1/4" away from the pocket line, leaving the extra inch on the end free. The stitching is hard to see in this photo, see below. The fabric strips have been outlined in blue; where the strips meet in the center is the pocket line. The red lines show where the stitching is -- notice it starts and ends 1" from the edge of the strips (so it is exactly the length of the finished pocket). Step 4: Slash the pocket open. The yellow indicates the slash line. Notice the "V" at each end. Start the "V" about 1/4-1/2" away from the end of the pocket line. Step 5: Push one of the fabric strips to the back side, folding it over the seam allowance to form the welt. Pin in place. Step 6: Push the other fabric strip to the back, again folding it over the seam allowance to form the welt. Pin in place, and press. At this step, your welts will look like this from the back. Step 7: If you want to attach a button loop or a flap, do so now. Pull the welt seam allowance out away from the rest of the fabric so you can work. Center the loop on the bottom welt as shown, and baste in place in the seam allowance. To add a flap, baste the flap to the seam allowance of the top welt. Note that the flap has to be the same width (not wider) than the pocket. Step 8: Pin the small pocket piece to the seam allowance of the bottom welt. (Note this picture is in the same orientation as Step 7, I've just placed the pocket piece on top). Step 9: Sew the pocket to the welt seam allowance 1/2" away from the edge. If you pull back the pocket, this is what you see. Step 10: Pin the larger pocket piece to the top welt seam allowance, and sew 1/2" away from the edge as you did for the other piece. Then press both pocket pieces away from the welts, as shown. Step 11: Flip over the whole piece, and pin the pocket pieces away from the welts and shown. Make sure everything is pressed and pinned tightly. Make sure the little triangles you made in step 4 are properly pressed back and out of sight. If you want to add a zipper, baste the zipper behind the welts at this point. Be sure that the zipper pull is the open space between the welts; otherwise you will sew your zipper closed in the next step. Step 12: "Stitch in the ditch" around the whole pocket opening. By this I mean topstitch, but position the stitching so it is in the seam where the welts attach. This will make the stitching next to invisible. Be sure to pull the fabric taught as you stitch. At this step, the back of the pocket looks like this. You can see the top stitching a little on the green lining. If you want to do a buttonhole, now is the time to sew it in. Stitch in buttonhole through the fabric and pocket lining below the pocket opening. You may want to use a square of interfacing between the fabric and pocket lining to reinforce the area, if necessary. Step 13: Put the ends of your pocket pieces together and stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Zig-zag stitch the edges to keep them from fraying. The seam may not be at the exact bottom of the pocket - you can trim the ends of the pocket pieces so they line up, so you can press the pocket so the seam is on the side. Step 14: Press the pocket out, making a nice crease at the bottom of the pocket. Pin the pocket sides together. Step 15: Pull one of the pocket sides out, and fold the rest of the fabric back. Starting at the top, stitch as close as you can to the pocket opening, being sure to stitch through the welt ends. Step 16: Repeat step 15 for the other side of the pocket. Step 17: Sew your button in place. If you are using a loop, but also a shankless button, you may want to sew it on using a thread shank. ----------------------------------------------------- Making Your Own Bias Tape Bias tape (aka bias binding) has a plethora of purposes -- a seam finish, a waistband (another kind of waistband), a quick hem alternative, a substitute for facings, and certainly others I didn't mention. But you don't want to use the few colors of plain cotton they have at the store? Make your own! The required materials are: * A large square or rectangle of fabric * A chalk pencil or washable fabric pen * Thread, iron, ruler or yardstick, scissors, those types of things There is another method to make bias tape, where you sew the fabric as a tube and then cut the binding in one continuous piece. You can find more information about this method at The Dread Pirate Rodgers Continuous Bias Tape Page and the Albedo Designs Bias Binding Page. So here is the SavvySeams bias tape method: Step 1: Cut out strips of fabric for your bias tape. To do this, first mark your cutting lines on the fabric using chalk pencil or dressmaker's pen. Decide how wide you need your finished product to be, how long you need it, and whether or not you want it to be double fold or single fold (scroll to the bottom for pictures of both). If you make single fold, your strips should be twice as wide as you want your finished product to be. If you make double fold, your strips need to be 4 times as wide as your finished tape. Usually I make double fold, 1/2" wide, so I cut out 2" strips. When you mark the cutting lines, remember this is bias tape, so the lines have to run at a 45 degree angle to the selvage. You need to cut enough strips so that when they are sewn together you'll have the length you need plus some extra. Keep in mind that the triangles formed at the ends are wasted, as is a small triangle underneath the strips (you could use it in a pinch, but the strips you get will be quite short). Step 2: After you mark and cut the strips, square off the ends. The two strips on the left have been squared off - the ones on the right haven't been yet. Step 3: Start attaching the strips. Place one over the other at a right angle, right sides together. Make sure the square ends line up. Step 4: Stitch diagonally from corner to corner of the overlapping squares. Step 5: The seam will look like this. Sew all the strips together using the same method. Be sure that you are consistent - with how you assemble your seams, otherwise you will end up with seams angling both directions. Step 6: Clip off the corners of each seam to a 1/4" seam allowance. Step 7: Open up the seams.... Step 8: And press the seam allowances flat. Step 9: Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Step 10: Open up the strip again. Now press both raw edges into the center. This is single fold bias tape. To make double fold sias tape, fold again in the center and press. ------------------------------------------------------- Making Fabric Cording This is one method of making your own fabric cording or rattail cord. Often used as spaghetti straps, drawstrings, button loops, and ties. This works best on fabrics that are a little slippery; if the fabric sticks to itself it will be difficult to turn right side out. The required materials are: * 3/4"-1.25" wide strips of fabric, about 2" longer than the finished length you want. A smaller width can be used with thinner, silky fabrics (like satin). A wider width should be used for thicker fabrics. Straps can be cut on the bias for a smoother result, or on the straight-grain to save fabric. * Thread * A safety pin * Patience Step 1: Fold the fabric strip in half, with the right side to the inside (inside out). Sew 1/4" away from the edge all the way down the length of the strip. Be sure to backstitch to anchor your sewing at the beginning and end of the strip. Step 2: Pin your safety pin through a good chunk of fabric on the side opposite the seam. If you grab too little fabric, the safety pin will pull out when you turn the fabric. Step 3: Dive the safety pin into the fabric tube. Step 4: Turn the cord right side out. Begin to pull the fabric up over the safety pin, and try to work the safety pin through the tube. Once you get it "started" it will be easy to bunch the fabric on the safety pin and pull the safety pin through. Step 5: Cut the cord into the lengths you want. If you will have a dangling end (like in a tie) finish the end of the cord. You can knot the cord and fray the end as shown in the picture, or tuck the raw edges back into the cord and hand sew the end closed. The end. --------------------------------------------- Sewing a Button with a Thread Shank Making a small thread shank will ease fastening and unfastening the button. The required materials are: * Button * Thread * A straight pin or toothpick Step 1: Start to sew the button on as usual, but before you pull the first stitch taut, slip in straight pin (or toothpick) between the button and the fabric. Step 2: Sew the button on as usual, making 4 or 5 passes through the holes. Step 3: Remove the pin and bring the needle up very close to the thread, but not through the button. Step 4: Wrap the thread around the slack several times. Then push the needle back to the wrong side of the fabric and knot it.